HOTEL AMORE Guide: Big Black Book on Venice
Hello my friends!
I hope you are doing great. I am still in Paris, post-fashion week was good now - a bit more chill after the craziness of the past week where we also somehow never had time for dinner - one evening I had dinner at McDonalds at Gare du Nord, very special - and that in Paris. This week we prepared for our event on Saturday, had meetings, met potential new clients and hosted a picnic in the most beautiful park, Buttes Chaumont Park. Can really recommend, the sundown is incredible and you can get nice wine & fromage from close by (thanks Tanja for showing me the most beautiful locations like Fromagerie Lefort or the Epicerie Umai!) We rode around lots on Lime electric bikes - the way to move in Paris, even though the traffic here is really another level…
Unfortunately I somehow got quite sick and have spent the past couple of days in bed. And that in Paris. Well, I guess this is a good time to do research, write the newsletter and be patient with life.
I finished Good Material by Dolly Alderton last week, I thought it was good but not as good as her others. Nice beach read, but it’s not as grasping as for example Tomorrow, Tomorrow, and Tomorrow by Gabrielle Zevin.
Let’s get to it! I wrote part I of a Venice big black book, featuring hotels, restaurants and cafes, part II will be about the Biennale, what to do and what to see curated by my husband Rory Kirk-Duncan, so stay tuned.
The first time I went to Venice was with my parents. It was also Biennale, but it’s a long time ago - must have been like over 10 years? I do remember we went to Fondazione Prada which was fantastic, but I didn’t remember much more. I somehow had saved Venice in my memory as a kind of Disneyland, super touristy and not my dream destination - only in February, when the weather is misty, the Piazza San Marco is empty and foggy, it somehow became this super dreamy location where I would write a book in a beautiful apartment with lace curtains - you get the idea. But this trip changed my mind about Venice completely, and would have loved to just have two more days to go to Murano and Burano where I haven’t yet been, spend a whole day each at the two Biennale destinations and have some time to discover all the small, local spots.
A note on transportation: You can get weekend passes for the vaporettos, the watertaxis, which I would highly recommend - then you don’t need to wait and can just tap your card at entry. I think it cost around 38€. The watertaxis connect the island and it’s a very convenient way to get around. Private watertaxis are quite expensive, but could be an experience. You can really walk almost anywhere anyways, it’s also my favorite way to get around to see as much as possible. I brought cute shoes, but then figured my Esber glitter Minette’s aren’t perfect to walk long distances, what a surprise!
Accommodation
This is where we stayed and I loved it. Don’t believe the negative reviews you can find for example on Booking.com. They come from people who don’t understand what a charming old Italian house is. Beautiful old-fashioned rooms in the second floor in a very central location, just five minutes away from Peggy Guggenheim. It’s not super quiet, therefore don’t stay here if you want to sleep in, also you have to like old charm. It is true, the pumps in the bathroom are a tad smelly, but I didn’t mind. Wouldn’t get breakfast though, the options close by are fantastic.
This hotel looks really beautiful and an oasis in a city like Venice. The garden is really special and I would love to sit and read there. Prices start at 300€ per night.
If you can splurge, I think this could be a great place to do so. It’s been named best hotel of the world by Conde Nast Traveller Gold List 2024, it’s old-school luxury. Murano chandeliers, Rubelli fabrics on the wall, a grandeur of the suites. Price per night starts at 900€ (I told you it’s a place to splurge).
Breakfast
We all know: Breakfast in Italy is very sweet, so for everyone who prefers savory breakfast or yoghurt (me), it might not be a dream. But as I want to experience my travels fully, I usually decide to throw my principles over board if they don’t match the place I am at - and I have what the locals are having.
Visited by Venetians in the morning for their coffees. They have a couple of locations, so you can find the one close to wherever you are. Such beautiful exterior and interior.
This spot was very busy, but also incredible. We tried a couple of crossaints, my favorites were from this place - we had a strawberry-filled red one and it was incredible. Also, the packaging of the cakes was just so cute - would have loved to get something just to have this packaging at home (I forgot).
