HOTEL AMORE Guide: Big Black Book on Switzerland - Part I Laax
HOTEL AMORE Guide: Big Black Book on Switzerland - Part I Laax
I want to share the secret of my favorite place on earth with you
Hello dear Internet Friends,
I hope you had a good week. My week revolved around sourcing some really exciting interview partners for the upcoming HOTEL AMORE INC fashion features, working on some freelance art buying jobs and preparing the next guides! I am working a big Berlin black book to be launched in end of September and for this one I am driving around, trying out things I have only heard about so far, to give you pure first-hand-experiences. I have also changed the look of the newsletter which I hope you like <3
I am also thinking about getting a car. I have been driving around in my dad’s very old car for two months now, it even has a space for a car phone in the middle - remember those? Having this car is just so convenient, but I have to return it unfortunately. If you’ve got any hot tips on what’s good, please send them my way. I’m dreaming of a Suzuki Jimney, but it seems quite hard to get it. But a white or light blue Jimney would be my dream!
Originally, I was going to do one Big Black Guide covering all of the incredible spots in Switzerland in one go, but as I started putting it all together, I realized the newsletter would be way too long - there’s just so many great places. So this way it became a two-parter, part II following next week. Part I is all about Laax: Even if this particular place hasn’t been on your radar yet or you are not planning a holiday to go there, I hope the images and moods inspire you to give La Suisse a try for your next holiday, because I think it’s the best!
Laax is a dreamy ski resort nestled near Chur, just about an hour and twenty minutes from Zurich. I’ve been coming here since I was a kid, and there’s something undeniably magical about being in these mountains—especially in the summer. Since meeting my husband Rory, we’ve created our own special way of doing holidays in Switzerland, and I love it so much. We start by settling into the house we are staying in, easing into things with some gentle hikes of 5-8 km. Then, after a day or two, we venture out on day trips across the country, and each time we are there we go to the places we love plus new places. This whole approach actually inspired the newsletter because you can reach all the places I will share with you within 30 minutes to a maximum of three hours for a day trip—or stay overnight if you want to. It’s the perfect way to explore the surrounding places which are honestly, breath-taking and have a very inspiring holiday.
I’ve been coming to Laax with my family since I was a baby and have refound love to it when I was in the end of my 20s. I sometimes found the village “too boring” when I was younger, but now I am loving the mountains and the quiet so much. We spend our days hiking, go to the lakes, skiing or on a day trip depending on the season, and by the afternoon, we’re back home, reading in the sun, working. Sometimes we’ll play a game (like The Masterpiece - an auction game from the 70s, it’s SO iconic), cook together, read, and enjoy cozy, early nights. It’s the ultimate reset.
Getting to Laax
We usually drive to Switzerland by car - it’s so good to be able to bring as much as we want and have the flexibility for spontaneous road trips. It’s a 9-10 hour journey, but when it’s shared, it’s fine. You can also fly to Zuerich, take a train to Chur and a bus to Laax, but with luggage it’s just a bit of a hassle. Also as mentioned I love to roam around freely - the next part of this guide will dive into what to see in nearby spots like Zurich, St. Moritz, Vals, Davos, Zuoz, and Sils, that’s why you need a car! Oh, and don’t forget the toll sticker for the Swiss motorway. You can buy it in Austria at most gas stations for around 40 Euros.
Regarding the drive: If you come from Germany and drive via Austria, it’s worth to take a stop in Bregenz at Kunsthaus Bregenz (if they have good exhibitions). Right now, there’s an incredible exhibition by the artist Anne Imhof, I Wish You Were Gay, running until the end of September. It’s dark, intense, and seriously impressive—absolutely worth seeing. I was especially struck by her video pieces—the one in the image below is from 20 years ago but feels so contemporary. From 5pm the exhibition is free to see.
Accommodation
Since I usually stick to this place, called Casa Muntina (which means: "House at the Mountain”) in the village of Laax Murschetg, I haven’t stayed in other places. But I do know what’s central and have looked into what I would consider to book which I have listed for you below. For your stay, I do recommend Laax Murschetg - a charming, quiet little village, though it does get busier during the day in the plaza. If you’re looking for more action, Flims is a bit bigger with more going on. You won’t find old-school luxury hotels in this area aside of Flims Waldhaus, but that’s closed sadly, but that’s part of the charm. I’d suggest staying in a traditional Swiss house or apartment to really soak in the vibe - honestly, it’s the best vibe!
Airbnb in the middle of the slopes in Flims
Owned by a Swiss-Japanese couple, this place looks like is has a great location in the midst of the slopes, I also really like the very simple, but tasteful interior.
134 Euros per night excl. fees.
Airbnb close to Flims
This Airbnb seems to be close to Flims, and has a really tasteful interior.
135 CHF excl. fees.
Mira Flem Penthouse in Flims
This looks very cosy with fun interior (love the zebra chairs…) and seems to be quite central in Flims - I think I know where it is which (if I am right) would be very close to the base station of Flims.
Up to 8 guests, 326 CHF per night, excl. fees.
Segneshütte
One thing I’ve always wanted to do, but haven’t yet: Spend the night at Segneshütte, which sits at the midpoint of one of my favorite hikes in the UNESCO World Heritage area around Sardona (I’ve detailed the hike below for you). The place is pretty simple, but the natural beauty is absolutely breathtaking. It’s currently closed for renovations but will reopen in mid-December. And yes, you can even stay there in winter!
Bubble Suite, Val Lumnezia
I also stumbled upon this bubble house - looks like a fun option for a night! There are quite a few of these out there, and this one’s just 45 minutes from Laax. Maybe for one night?
It’s 299 CHF per night.
Hotel Flims Waldhaus
This hotel is currently closed, but I heard from someone in the village that it has just been bought by a new investor and might be reopened. Let me tell you—it’s truly iconic! It is the main location in Sorrentino’s filmYouth - below you can see the pool of the hotel in the film. You can still visit the hotel and walk around despite it being closed - at least we could when we came there in August. There’s something so hauntingly beautiful about wandering through its deserted garden.
If you really do want to stay in a hotel or hotel-like apartments in Laax Murschetg, you can consider Riders Hotel, Laax or Rocks Resort, both are incredibly central as they are based on the base of the slopes in Laax. Have to say that neither of those places are my favorites in terms of design and interior - it’s much more functional than has a personality touch. But the location is really fantastic if you want to basically fall into the skiing lift. The other hotels in the area are really old-school but not in a good way lol.
Hikes
The area is packed with incredible hikes, and getting to the starting point is very easy thanks to the excellent bus connections. Even better, you can ride the buses for free with a guest card. It’s the perfect setup for exploring the trails without any hassle! You can go up to almost all the mountains, check the very useful Laax app for more information. I’ve been hiking in this area since I was a child, so I know a lot of spots. But I have to admit, after spending my teenage years trailing behind my parents (often annoyed) and combining that with my terrible sense of direction, I had to rediscover many of these hikes all over again. So, I’m writing the guide below for you, but honestly, also for myself—so I can remember where to go next time!
Laax —> Caumasee —> Conn —> Flims
Caumasee is hands down one of the most breathtaking mountain lakes I’ve ever visited. The turquoise, crystal-clear water is framed by lush forest and dramatic peaks. It’s stunning every the season - I even once took a dip in October, and it was absolutely magical (but never before have I entered colder water).
I highly recommend a stop at Restaurant Conn—a place I’ve visited so many times, I’ve lost count. Go for the pear ravioli, salads (I mean sausage salad lol), ham & cheese platter, soup and the mixed platter. Whether you pair it with a crisp beer or a refreshing “Holunderschorle,” it’s always GREAT.
On your way back, don’t miss Flims Waldhaus - who knows, it might or might not have new owners soon, and you could enjoy a coffee at the iconic restaurant or just sniff around (which is what we did). Or, if you’re ready to head back, you can simply catch the bus to Laax or wherever you’re staying.