HOTEL AMORE Guide: Big Black Book on Switzerland - Part I Laax
I want to share the secret of my favorite place on earth with you
Hello dear Internet Friends,
I hope you had a good week. My week revolved around sourcing some really exciting interview partners for the upcoming HOTEL AMORE INC fashion features, working on some freelance art buying jobs and preparing the next guides! I am working a big Berlin black book to be launched in end of September and for this one I am driving around, trying out things I have only heard about so far, to give you pure first-hand-experiences. I have also changed the look of the newsletter which I hope you like <3
I am also thinking about getting a car. I have been driving around in my dad’s very old car for two months now, it even has a space for a car phone in the middle - remember those? Having this car is just so convenient, but I have to return it unfortunately. If you’ve got any hot tips on what’s good, please send them my way. I’m dreaming of a Suzuki Jimney, but it seems quite hard to get it. But a white or light blue Jimney would be my dream!
Originally, I was going to do one Big Black Guide covering all of the incredible spots in Switzerland in one go, but as I started putting it all together, I realized the newsletter would be way too long - there’s just so many great places. So this way it became a two-parter, part II following next week. Part I is all about Laax: Even if this particular place hasn’t been on your radar yet or you are not planning a holiday to go there, I hope the images and moods inspire you to give La Suisse a try for your next holiday, because I think it’s the best!
Laax is a dreamy ski resort nestled near Chur, just about an hour and twenty minutes from Zurich. I’ve been coming here since I was a kid, and there’s something undeniably magical about being in these mountains—especially in the summer. Since meeting my husband Rory, we’ve created our own special way of doing holidays in Switzerland, and I love it so much. We start by settling into the house we are staying in, easing into things with some gentle hikes of 5-8 km. Then, after a day or two, we venture out on day trips across the country, and each time we are there we go to the places we love plus new places. This whole approach actually inspired the newsletter because you can reach all the places I will share with you within 30 minutes to a maximum of three hours for a day trip—or stay overnight if you want to. It’s the perfect way to explore the surrounding places which are honestly, breath-taking and have a very inspiring holiday.
I’ve been coming to Laax with my family since I was a baby and have refound love to it when I was in the end of my 20s. I sometimes found the village “too boring” when I was younger, but now I am loving the mountains and the quiet so much. We spend our days hiking, go to the lakes, skiing or on a day trip depending on the season, and by the afternoon, we’re back home, reading in the sun, working. Sometimes we’ll play a game (like The Masterpiece - an auction game from the 70s, it’s SO iconic), cook together, read, and enjoy cozy, early nights. It’s the ultimate reset.
Getting to Laax
We usually drive to Switzerland by car - it’s so good to be able to bring as much as we want and have the flexibility for spontaneous road trips. It’s a 9-10 hour journey, but when it’s shared, it’s fine. You can also fly to Zuerich, take a train to Chur and a bus to Laax, but with luggage it’s just a bit of a hassle. Also as mentioned I love to roam around freely - the next part of this guide will dive into what to see in nearby spots like Zurich, St. Moritz, Vals, Davos, Zuoz, and Sils, that’s why you need a car! Oh, and don’t forget the toll sticker for the Swiss motorway. You can buy it in Austria at most gas stations for around 40 Euros.
Regarding the drive: If you come from Germany and drive via Austria, it’s worth to take a stop in Bregenz at Kunsthaus Bregenz (if they have good exhibitions). Right now, there’s an incredible exhibition by the artist Anne Imhof, I Wish You Were Gay, running until the end of September. It’s dark, intense, and seriously impressive—absolutely worth seeing. I was especially struck by her video pieces—the one in the image below is from 20 years ago but feels so contemporary. From 5pm the exhibition is free to see.
Accommodation
Since I usually stick to this place, called Casa Muntina (which means: "House at the Mountain”) in the village of Laax Murschetg, I haven’t stayed in other places. But I do know what’s central and have looked into what I would consider to book which I have listed for you below. For your stay, I do recommend Laax Murschetg - a charming, quiet little village, though it does get busier during the day in the plaza. If you’re looking for more action, Flims is a bit bigger with more going on. You won’t find old-school luxury hotels in this area aside of Flims Waldhaus, but that’s closed sadly, but that’s part of the charm. I’d suggest staying in a traditional Swiss house or apartment to really soak in the vibe - honestly, it’s the best vibe!
Airbnb in the middle of the slopes in Flims
Owned by a Swiss-Japanese couple, this place looks like is has a great location in the midst of the slopes, I also really like the very simple, but tasteful interior.
134 Euros per night excl. fees.
Airbnb close to Flims
This Airbnb seems to be close to Flims, and has a really tasteful interior.
135 CHF excl. fees.
Mira Flem Penthouse in Flims
This looks very cosy with fun interior (love the zebra chairs…) and seems to be quite central in Flims - I think I know where it is which (if I am right) would be very close to the base station of Flims.
Up to 8 guests, 326 CHF per night, excl. fees.
Segneshütte
One thing I’ve always wanted to do, but haven’t yet: Spend the night at Segneshütte, which sits at the midpoint of one of my favorite hikes in the UNESCO World Heritage area around Sardona (I’ve detailed the hike below for you). The place is pretty simple, but the natural beauty is absolutely breathtaking. It’s currently closed for renovations but will reopen in mid-December. And yes, you can even stay there in winter!
Bubble Suite, Val Lumnezia
I also stumbled upon this bubble house - looks like a fun option for a night! There are quite a few of these out there, and this one’s just 45 minutes from Laax. Maybe for one night?
It’s 299 CHF per night.
Hotel Flims Waldhaus
This hotel is currently closed, but I heard from someone in the village that it has just been bought by a new investor and might be reopened. Let me tell you—it’s truly iconic! It is the main location in Sorrentino’s filmYouth - below you can see the pool of the hotel in the film. You can still visit the hotel and walk around despite it being closed - at least we could when we came there in August. There’s something so hauntingly beautiful about wandering through its deserted garden.
If you really do want to stay in a hotel or hotel-like apartments in Laax Murschetg, you can consider Riders Hotel, Laax or Rocks Resort, both are incredibly central as they are based on the base of the slopes in Laax. Have to say that neither of those places are my favorites in terms of design and interior - it’s much more functional than has a personality touch. But the location is really fantastic if you want to basically fall into the skiing lift. The other hotels in the area are really old-school but not in a good way lol.
Hikes
The area is packed with incredible hikes, and getting to the starting point is very easy thanks to the excellent bus connections. Even better, you can ride the buses for free with a guest card. It’s the perfect setup for exploring the trails without any hassle! You can go up to almost all the mountains, check the very useful Laax app for more information. I’ve been hiking in this area since I was a child, so I know a lot of spots. But I have to admit, after spending my teenage years trailing behind my parents (often annoyed) and combining that with my terrible sense of direction, I had to rediscover many of these hikes all over again. So, I’m writing the guide below for you, but honestly, also for myself—so I can remember where to go next time!
Laax —> Caumasee —> Conn —> Flims
Caumasee is hands down one of the most breathtaking mountain lakes I’ve ever visited. The turquoise, crystal-clear water is framed by lush forest and dramatic peaks. It’s stunning every the season - I even once took a dip in October, and it was absolutely magical (but never before have I entered colder water).
I highly recommend a stop at Restaurant Conn—a place I’ve visited so many times, I’ve lost count. Go for the pear ravioli, salads (I mean sausage salad lol), ham & cheese platter, soup and the mixed platter. Whether you pair it with a crisp beer or a refreshing “Holunderschorle,” it’s always GREAT.
On your way back, don’t miss Flims Waldhaus - who knows, it might or might not have new owners soon, and you could enjoy a coffee at the iconic restaurant or just sniff around (which is what we did). Or, if you’re ready to head back, you can simply catch the bus to Laax or wherever you’re staying.
UNESCO World Heritage Tectonic Arena Sardona: Trudg di Flem
This hike is absolutely incredible - and it’s long meaning that we spent the next two days feeling like we can’t walk anymore. You’ll cover about 16 kilometers, but every step is worth it, and the views are truly breathtaking. If you take the Trudg di Flem (you can also take another route), you’ll meander alongside shimmering waters and cross the seven bridges by the architect Jürg Conzett which seamlessly blend with the natural landscape. Bring cash, because then you can buy one of the honeys in the box in the valley of the mountain which we always forget. It’s a pretty amazing experience.
How to get there:
Take the gondola to Nagens from Flims base station (there is also a bus, but the gondola is more fun - it costs around 25€ per person), exit the lift to the left, and walk up to the first split of the path, take the right one, direction Grauberg. You’ll arrive at the station of Grauberg and have the incredible landscape to your feet. You can then have lunch at Segneshuette, but to note, it is closed at the moment, we brought our own sandwiches and ate them next to the river, having out feet in the ice cold glacier water which was SO GOOD. We hiked the Trudg di Flem back to Flims to see the seven bridges, in Flims we took the bus back to Laax base station, but you can also take alternative routes.
You can also sleep here and watch the stars at night, which looks pretty cool!
Lunch: There is a place with a great view to have a simple lunch (you can also sleep there) called Segneshuette as I mentioned above, but it is closed in summer 2024 for renovations. An alternative is Startgels, but I would recommend to bring packed lunch and come to Startgels for a cold beer later as you will reach it almost at the end of the hike. The nature is so exceptional here that you will want to take a break anyhow to take it all in. Pro tip - find a spot where you can hang your feet into the ice cold glacier water during lunch, it’s a game changer to keep you going.
What to bring: Good hiking shoes! You will walk downhill a lot. We discovered walking sticks - wow, what a game changer.
Trin —> “Strudeltöpfe” Alp Mora
This was the hardest hike I have ever done - wow - but also the most beautiful! From Trin it’s a steep 9-kilometer path / approximately 3 hrs uphill which make you ask yourself why you are doing it until you are blessed with twenty beautiful glacier holes with ice cold glacier water in which you can take a bath! You will walk back down 9-kilometers, which takes 2 hrs and will probably leave you in a state of wanting to be horizontal immediately - but maybe you are also more trained than us. LOVED IT.
How to get here: You can park your car in Trin, from there you will find signs which way to take. You can also take the bus which goes Wednesday and Saturday, but you have to reserve it before. From the bus station “Purcs” it would be a 1:15 hrs walk. You can also park at Fidaz, but I don’t know what that’s like.
What to bring: Good shoes! Walking sticks, enough water and food - there is no restaurant, just pure mountain bliss. Don’t walk in the midday heat (which we did), that doesn’t make things easier :)
Laax —> Falera —> Curnius
I used to do this smaller hike from Laax to Falera, a lovely 8-kilometer walk through the forest to the village of Falera. But then I discovered you can extend the trek by heading up to Curnius, either by feet or by gondola. It takes about an hour or so to walk up there, where you’ll find a beautiful lunch spot—just be sure to check the opening times of the Curnius hut! Also, while it might say an hour to Curnius, keep in mind it’s a steep uphill, and it might take a bit longer in winter. Just a heads-up!
Lunch
I’m a big fan of hiking to lunch spots—it’s such a motivating goal! We actually very rarely, almost never go out for dinner in Switzerland; I just find it more relaxing to cook at home, there’s something so chill about not having any plans in the evening and to just hang out together.
Stalla, Alp Nagens, 1980m above sea level
You can get to Stalla from the mountain station Nagens, which you can reach by bus or gondola. From there, it’s just a short walk or ski to the restaurant. Stalla is one of my absolute favorites: it’s sunny during lunch (I mean it’s sunny when the sun shines haha), with super comfy deck chairs, cozy red-and-white blankets, and fantastic food. It’s one of my top spots to chill out all afternoon—think raclette, fondue, and all the alpine delights.
Open from June, 22nd - October, 20th all day
Casa Berendi
One of my absolute favorite restaurants, though I always forget the name—it is now forever imprinted in this newsletter, so I can always find it! It’s an Italian spot with a fantastic lunch menu and a stunning view. Just a heads-up: make sure to reserve in advance. They take their last orders at 1pm and only have one shift. It’s at the chairlift of Foppa, coming from Flims.
Gasthaus am Brunnen, Valendas
I went there a long time ago with my husband who invited me for dinner here - it was a really beautiful plaza in a small village and food was incredible, maybe 20 minutes from Laax. It was a special tip from a Swiss friend of ours and food was incredible.
Wishlist: Casa Alva, Alp Sogn Martin, Fondue Stuebli Vorab, Atelier Spalegna
Lakes
I love mountain lakes, they are just something else. The color which is often turquoise, the forest around and the air - I just want to go back now!
Caumasee
I love this lake so much, it’s really beautiful - surrounded by the forest with crystal clear water. You can rent deck chairs for 8 Franks which makes sense because there are quite a few ants on the ground. If you have a guest card you pay 50% less for entrance (7 instead of 14 Franks). It’s really perfect also with kids, on the far right of the lakes you have lots of families, on the left fewer kids :) You can also get food, pizza, sandwiches, ice cream - we usually pack our own lunch. Best to bring an umbrella!
Crestasee
I think Caumasee is the absolute best, but this lake is also amazing but much smaller and I don’t love the outside area as much. Entrance is 7 Franks and they have a kiosk. Parking is about 10 minute walking from the lake, and you can also rent a boat which is fun!
Well - these are my secrets, my friends. My advice: Go to Laax (if that didn’t get clear just yet haha), I just came back from this magical place and feel so relaxed and motivated for Autumn now. Next week I will follow with Part II, the amazing places we went to see while we were there!
I wish you a great weekend!
Your Close Internet Friend,
LKD
