HOTEL AMORE Guide: Big Black Book on Viennas Best Hotels, Restaurants, Cafes and Museums
Hello my dear internet friends,
I hope you are doing well. The past week was tough with the news of Trump becoming president and more unnerving news from the world.
I felt like these kind of happenings have motivated people around me to undertake more small acts of kindness than usual - maybe as a way to do something small within our small, local community if the world sucks…I want to try to do that more often too, sometimes these small things can make a real difference to someone else’s day. I got a good opportunity on Monday - I did my shopping at the supermarket, and a woman in front of me had a full load of groceries. But she had forgotten her wallet, and was so upset! She tried to pay with PayPal, which was denied and was about to leave. I offered to pay for her groceries, and she just send the amount back to me on PayPal. That was a tiny gesture, didn’t cost me anything, but I know I saved her day probably. I have been in that situation many times where nobody offered help. Maybe other people behind us also decided to be nicer on that day. Not sharing this to brag, but to inspire more kind acts around us, especially in a big anonymous capital city.
For the past two days I watched my favourite BOF Voices 2024, the annual conference from Business of Fashion which never fails to inspire me. I have watched it every single year since they started. I didn’t manage to watch all talks yet, but lots of them and the speakers were truly amazing again - from the most charming designer Simon Porte Jacquemus to a conversation between journalist Tim Blanks, Alessandro Michele, the current Creative Director of Valentino and the CEO Jacopo Venturini in a conversation about why the special, emotional relationship between Michele and Venturini makes all their work better. And I mean look at Venturini’s outfit, wow, I had to take screenshots as a mental note for my own inspiration.
Anyways, I won’t go on too long about this - I just want to say that if you are thinking about watching the conference, please do, I love it. My favourite section is always Living Your Best Life, this time my favourite talks were from war photographer Giles Daley (I cried) and the incredible activist, model, mother, agent Bethann Hardison and menswear designer Bianca Saunders. They really show diversity, emotion and humanness, which is a great inspiration to me.
One criticism I would have, is that they also hosted the gone-viral couple Nara and Lucky Blue Smith, who both seem to be Trump supporters. I guess those news broke too late, but what Nara Smith stands for - tradwife content which in the end is all about domestication of women - I have my opinion about that and I don’t think it should be glamorised and put in a conference like that.
Before we get to the Black Book, I want to tell you that I have updated one of the subscription tier benefits: If you decide to become a founding member, you can now ask me once per month for travel tips if you are going somewhere. I will share 3-4 hot spots with you, you can give me a focus and I will source the best! Maybe a nice Christmas gift to yourself? Recently I did this for a founding member who went to Paris for four days and asked me for upcoming exhibitions and best places to see. I shared with her restaurants, exhibitions, bars and cafes - if you want that too, you can become a founding member now:
But now, let’s get to the Big Black Book on Vienna! The last time I came to Vienna was in August of 2017, seven years ago: It was for a fashion production and we shot a streetwear campaign in the museum, at the Albertina museum to be exact. Looking back, I think it’s quite cool we were allowed to do that, no idea how that worked.
Back then, I extended the worktrip for two more days together with the producer, and the only apartment that was free back then was this Star-Wars-themed Airbnb which we booked. It was hilarious. The worst part was that I accidentally cuddled with the fake-fur blanket which covered the bed in the morning which was pretty disgusting, considering it was probably washed rarely or even never.
The reason why we went to Vienna this time was as another trip organised for premium members of Super Super Markt, similar to the one we did in Venice which was really fun! Therefore lots of credits of the below Black Book go to Super Super Markt, who organised the whole trip with a great hotel, lunch and dinner places and of course an extensive art programme! I would have liked more days in the city, because there were a lot of great places on my wishlist and I didn’t manage to visit them all. But I listed them for you anyways.
When we were at mumok museum in Vienna, by chance I met the wonderful Diandra Donecker, Managing Partner at the great Grisebach Auctions in Berlin, who also visited. To add onto Super Super Markt and my places, I asked her if she would share her favourite spots on top which she did - thanks Diandra for joining this edition! I missed some museum visits because I felt a bit sick during the trip, but Diandra covered them now which is great!
Accommodation
This time we went for a less fancy accommodation, because we wanted to spend the majority of the travel budget for eating out. We stayed in two hotels with the goal to give you two recommendations. But the first one wasn’t that great, therefore I won’t recommend it to you.
Hotel Beethoven
This hotel was recommended by the Phileas art foundation in Vienna. The hotel is neither a hip place, nor does it have a trendy interior or anything like that. But it’s really comfortable, I slept like an angel, the staff is absolutely lovely and it’s really central to all the art places we wanted to visit, it’s just next to Naschmarkt. And the price is great, it’s four stars and a night starts at 120 EUR.
Hotel Altstadt Vienna
Diandra Donecker: Individual rooms, designed by various artists. The best, most loving breakfast with regional delicacies and in the afternoon a gentleman plays the piano while you nibble on homemade cakes and cookies...
Breakfast
Cafe Engländer
This is iconic: Founded in 1937, this cafe has been built in the style of the new Objectivity by Herrmann Steigholzer and was originally named Cafe Windhaag. Stories around the owner couple went around, with names Fredl and Salomea Engländer - but this was all a made up story. Today the place is known as a a great coffeehouse, and “an almost competition-less institution for the people who work in art and media”. John Malkovitch is a regular, Patti Smith and Yoko Ono have visited. Here is an article from the Austrian newspaper Der Standard which could give you an insight of what the cafe is like. Foodwise it was fine, but not stunning, so I would rather come for the iconic history part!
Cafes
Cafe Misa
I walked by this cafe by chance and it was so good! The owners were lovely, and stocked lots of options for matcha, hojitcha and other rare teas, matcha yuzu etc. I got the latter as a take away, and it was perfect. They also sell their tea at Ototo.
Cafe Demel
I mean - I met Luca Guadagnino here and said hi. Of course he was here, at this iconic place, the most famous pastry shop in Vienna. Some might feel like it’s too touristy, but my suggestion is - be like Luca Guadagnino: Sit downstairs at the counter, away from the masses who sit on top. We tried a piece of Sacher Torte which was good - I am not a cake fan, but felt like it’s a given to do that. You can also get the Kaiserschmarrn from the take-out which rumour says is the best in the world. Beautiful packaging of chocolate, great for gifts. Another classic you can try out is Cafe Diglas.
Café Prückel
Diandra Donecker: Café Prückel, furnished in the style of the 1950s, is a wonderful original place, right opposite the MAK. People read the newspaper there for hours on end, drink cocoa with whipped cream without restraint and some friends stay for a second round of champagne. Lots of families, friends, cozy and relaxed.
Wishlist:
No Panic Cafe: Classic hip cafe, Ototo: Looks like a very nice neighbourhood coffee place where you can also buy healthy delicacies and read magazines.
Lunch
Neni at Naschmarkt
We came here on our first day and had lunch outside at the Israeli Neni which was so nice because it was sunny - having sun in late Autumn always feels so special. I had my favourite, which is Sabich - it was so good, highly recommended. The market has about with 170 stalls where you can buy groceries and specialities such as nuts, herbs etc. as well as quite a range of restaurants. Some didn’t look that great, but Neni was really good! On Saturdays there is always a flee market, which I haven’t visited but might be worth going.
Trześniewski
Diandra Donecker: Trześniewski, founded around 1905, is not only a very nice place with dark wood paneling and beautiful window panes and metal handles and fireplace grilles of the extra class - no, the fragrant rolls, either with egg or pea sauce, accompanied by a Pfiff (a tiny, small baby beer) are a wonderful pit stop when you've just stocked up on precious glasses at Lohmeyer or pressed your nose against the shop window at KNIZE to make out the details of the perfect tuxedo.
Glacis Beisl
We had lunch here after going to mumok, which was perfect as it’s so close. Tasty Viennese food, perfect for in-between museum visits - I had the traditional Viennese frittaten soup which is basically broth with crêpe slivers) pictured on the right, craving it right now that I see it!
Wishlist: Palmenhaus: Located in a greenhouse, this is a place for Mediterranean-Viennese lunch or also just coffee.
Dinner
This was my absolute Vienna Favorite place to eat - I love these kinds of restaurants so much. Come for the very tasty schnitzel, great gifts and interior design and really nice bar personnel! You can also have the famous Schnitten here which I didn’t try but will next time. Could have gone here every day to be honest…
Skopik & Lohn
This was great! We had an absolute Schnitzel-overload after the days in Vienna, but it was worth it. I liked the menu, it wasn’t too big - only if you are too particular, you won’t find anything. The restaurant was pretty packed, and the vibe was good. They had very nice non-alcoholic drinks options, which to me is always a plus.
Wishlist:
O boufés: A bistro with small, creative but not too fancy places by one of Vienna’s best chefs, Konstantin Filippou. Sounds perfect.
Art
Heidi Horten Collection
The collection of the late billionaire Heidi Horten was one of my favorites. This woman was married four times, and with each divorce, she became wealthier. After the death of her husband, Helmut Horten, in 1987, Heidi Horten began building her art collection with great passion, always fostering a personal connection to the pieces. Today, the collection includes works by Pablo Picasso, Marc Chagall, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Lucian Freud, Francis Bacon, and many other notable artists.It’s important to note that the wealth used to acquire the art came from Helmut Horten’s assets. He was not only a member of the NSDAP, but also amassed his fortune by taking over businesses that had been expropriated from Jewish owners—an unsettling backstory to the otherwise beautiful art, which the museum addressed prominently during our guided tour.
Mumok: Museum moderner Kunst Stiftung Ludwig Wien
The current retrospective is really captivating - it’s called Medardo Rosso: Inventing Modern Sculpture - an exhibition that brings together more than fifty sculptures and a large selection of photographs, photocollages, as well as drawings. The exhibition follows the relational thinking of Medardo Rosso, who frequently exhibited his output into “conversation” with comparable works, and contextualizes his work with carefully selected works by some of the most impressive artists such as Edgar Degas, Constantin Brâncuși, Louise Bourgeois, Jasper Johns, Robert Morris,, and Phyllida Barlow—who resonate directly or indirectly with Rosso. It’s a very impressive show to see.
Secession
Diandra Donecker: Secession, where you see great contemporary art in one of the most beautiful buildings, and not to forget the Beethoven Fries.
Albertina
Diandra Donecker: Albertina, the largest collection for prints and drawings, for example the biggest collection of A Kubin and his very creepy and sensual drawings in ink.
Kunsthistorisches Museum
Diandra Donecker: I want to be reborn as a step or latch in this building! It is beyond beautiful. You would find Bellinis Saliera and the Self Portrait by Parmigianino in the konvex mirror, a spectacle at his time!!
Phileas
Phileas is the Austrian office for contemporary art, which at its core has the mission to support Austrian artists with the help of donations from the Austrian state as well as from private donors. We had a really interesting and inspiring guided tour through what the office does and the current exhibition of the artist Soshiro Matsubara. You can just drop by and go in, even if the place seems like an office!
Shopping
Wäscheflott
We passed this cute shop by chance - they sell handmade shirts, blouses and pyjamas since 1948. I bought two boxer shorts, one in butter and one in yves-klein blue: I would have bought even more, but was too lazy to try anything on. The perfect gift!
Loden-Plankl
Oh, this traditional shop was so cute. I only had time to go to the small one where you can get edelweiss brooches and cute wool socks with a little edelweiss on the side which I bought. I think the big one is really good too if you are into traditional Viennaise clothing! Here is Aerin Lauder trying on some of the jackets.
Backyard Archive
I am so upset with myself, I really wanted to go here - but missed that you need an appointment. So I stood at the front door, but didn’t get in. You have to create an account before, make an appointment and then you can go. What it is? Basically an incredible archive of Helmut Lang, Celine, Dior, Raf Simons, set in a living room like place…It’s expensive, yes, but also really incredible in terms of their selection.
Park
Diandra Donecker: A beautiful concept store - was opened in Vienna in 2004 by Markus Strasser and Helmut Ruthner and is considered the be the best store in Austria. The focus is on the intensive examination of each individual item of clothing
Burggasse 24
I went to this vintage shop which had some good pieces and some not so great ones. I tried on a really good coat but didn’t buy it in the end. They have a vintage corner with random brands, which is less expensive and a designer one. Personally, I only buy designer vintage either at stores like Backyard or I go digging at Vestiaire - in between there is not much, so it wasn’t for me, I prefer the random corner where you can be lucky sometimes!
Wishlist:
Derby: A shop only for traditional gloves, Minaminou: A new vintage shop which opened only in September of this year. Lots of vintage Galliano and Margiela. Saint Charles Apotheke: A beautiful pharmacy selling some of the best soap - I love this brand so much and the store is absolutely worth a visit. Anouk: Mens & womenswear store, more streetwear vibe with Carhartt, Diemme, Patta etc.
Hiking
When I went to Vienna years ago, we also went hiking in the winey ards which was awesome. Thanks to the iPhone, I was also able to find out, where we went - I now linked you this article, because I don’t remember details - only that we took a train and then hiked the whole wineyard area, with loads of stops at small little places where you can have a glass of wine. This means you can have lots of wine tastings during your hike which doesn’t make it more of a sports activity, but really fun!
That’s it my friends. Thanks Diandra for adding your hot intel! Vienna is so iconic and worth a visit, I really want to come back.
Until the next time, à bientôt.
LKD